Expedition Application Process

RULES & REGULATIONS FOR FOREIGN EXPEDITIONISTS

Please refer to the step by step guide to Sign up and apply for expedition on IMF website. Download

Foreign Expeditions

(Foreign Users can also apply for Expedition using offline method.Download the attached application form. Download )

A foreign expedition team desirous of climbing a peak or peaks in India, shall apply to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) on the prescribed application form along with prescribed amount with regards to handling charges and Liaison Officer fees minimum 90 days prior to the planned expedition. As soon as a proposal is received from the expedition team, the IMF books the peak(s) provisionally, subject to the availability on "first-come first-serve basis" and informs the party accordingly. The IMF allots a Registration Number to the expedition which must be quoted in all future correspondence. The expedition team must indicate an alternativepeakin their request while sending the proposal. Permission from the Govt of India to climb is essential and the Indian Mountaineering Foundation will take steps to obtain this permission on receipt of application form with full particulars and documents. On receipt of intimation of provisional booking from the IMF, the team should send the full amount through bank transfers at the earliest. IMF accepts applications for provisional booking of peaks up to three years in advance. These applications may be made on line or through Tour Operators listed with IMF along with 25% advance of the prescribed handling charges. In case of cancellation, 25% of the handling charges will be retained by the IMF. In case the expedition is postponed up to one year, 10% of these charges would be retained by the IMF. One per cent additional charges per month would be levied for each month beyond one year. Besides, if the peak is booked two years in advance from the date of actual climb, 25% additional advance would be levied after one year. Delay in receipt of application, incomplete applications, changes in planned peak/schedule/route as also addition/substitution of members would cause a further delay of four weeks in obtaining permission from the Govt of India. Peaks bookings are valid for 30 to 45 days from Base Camp to Base Camp. The permit will be granted to maximum up to 30 climbing members. Mountains attracting more climbers than above will be given climbing permit with a gap of 10 days. The team members should be educated and be prepared to attempt the mountain alongside other expeditions. The IMF reserves the right to cancel the allotment of peak/peaks at any time without assigning any reason. In such cases, the handling charges shall be refunded in full. The IMF also reserves the right to allot a particular peak to more than one expedition in the same season. In case an expedition desires to attempt additional peak/peaks in the open area for which permission has not been obtained, requests for such attempts can be made in writing to the Liaison Officer of the expedition who may allow such an attempt, provided that the peak/ peaks is/are not being attempted by other expeditions. The handling charges payable for such peak/peaks shall be 50% of the normal charges. This amount will have to be paid to the IMF before the expedition team returns to their country.

Route:

Expedition will follow the route approved by the IMF and NO deviation is permissible except in an emergency and that too with prior written approval of the Liaison Officer(LO).
Abandoning the Expedition: Once the leader decides to abandon the expedition, the entire team will return to Delhi along with the LO and inform Director-IMF immediately.
Splitting of the Expedition Team: Splitting of expedition team into two or more sub-groups is NOT allowed for any purpose other than to climb the summit in the form of ropes/sub-groups beyond the base camp.
Arms/Ammunition/Explosives are not to be carried: Expedition parties will not carry arms/ammunition/explosives during the expedition.

Walkie talkie Sets

Expeditions are advised to use hand-held walkie-talkie sets for inter-communication within the expedition ahead of the Base Camp. Walkie-talkie sets may be brought by expedition teams or obtained on hire from the IMF stores at nominal rates. Booking has to be done with IMF well in advance to avoid last minute disappointment.

Briefing and Debriefing

The leader of the expedition, representative of Tour Operator, if any, and LO shall report to the Director, IMF on arrival of team in India. The leader will furnish photocopies of team's passports with `X' mountaineering visas endorsed on them, details of custom's clearance, import of equipment, high altitude rations and trance-receiving equipment into India, insurance policies and other necessary details to the Director-IMF in the presence of the LO. On return from the expedition, the leader of the expedition, along with the LO and representative of the Tour Operator, if any will report to the Director-IMF or his authorised representative for de-briefing and for submitting the report. A form for submission of the report will be issued to the leader and the LO of the expedition before departure for the peak. It is emphasised that the foreign expedition teams must do their best about completion of all procedural requirements in order to proceed for the peak after its arrival in India.

Liaison Officer

Every foreign expedition will be required to be accompanied by an Indian LO appointed by the IMF. The LO will be treated as a member of the expedition and provided with the following equipment/clothing from IMF stores on payment of US$ 500 by the team:-

1. Climbing boots along with covers - 01 Pair 2. Crampons - 01 Pair
3. Ice-axe - 01 no.
4. Windproof suit - 01 no.
5. Down jacket - 01 no.
6. Sleeping bag - 01 no.
7. Carry mat - 01 no.
8. Rucksack - 01 no.
9. Socks - 02 Pairs
10. Climbing harness - 01 no.
11. Head Gear - 01 no.
12. Gloves - 01 Pairs
13. Goggles - 01 no.
14. Two men tent - 01 no.
15. Safety helmet - 01 no.
16. Woolens - Vests, leggings, pullover, trousers and shirt
17. Other essential items.

The LO shall extend maximum possible assistance to the expedition team in custom clearance, making purchases, hiring of porters, mules/yaks, booking of accommodation on the way to the mountains, hiring of transport from Delhi to the road head and back, maintaining liaison with the local civil, military and para-military authorities.In case of death of any member/porter, LO will obtain death certificate from DC before leaving the mountain. He shall, however, not handle any cash nor undertake any financial transactions on behalf of the leader/expedition. TheLO may go to higher camps and even to the summit according to his or her experience and competence. All facilities with regards to boarding, lodging and transportation during road journey and on mountain will be provided to LO as being provided to team members. The pay and allowances of every LO is paid by their employers in India for the duration of the expedition and cost of reaching New Delhi and going back to his or her place of residence is not the liability of the expedition team. On termination of the expedition, the LO will submit a report online or on the form to be obtained from the IMF.

Import/ Export of Mountaineering Equipment

Equipment, non-consumable and consumable, imported by a party into India, shall be subject to the following conditions: 18 Equipment and non-consumable and consumable stores will be allowed temporarily free entry without customs duty subject to an undertaking being furnished by the leader of the expedition to the effect that the equipment and non-consumable stores will be re-exported out of India and that no part of it will be sold or otherwise disposed of in India, failing which customs duty will have to be paid by the expedition team.

Handling Charges

Handling charges at the following rates: will be applicable:

Below 6500m

US$ 500 for a team of two members and US$ 225

6501 to 7000m

US$ 700 for a team of two members and US$ 325

7001 and above

US$ 1000 for a team of two members and US$ 450

For trekking peaks (Stok Kangri,Ladakh,J&K, Ladakhi,Freindship,H.P.)

US$ 100 for a team of two members and US$ 50 for each additional memberfor up to a maximum of fifteen members.

Note: For East Karakoram only joint expeditions with Indian counterparts are permitted as per Government of India directives.

Remarks:

Liaison Officer Equipment Hire charges US$ 500 in addition to the handling charges. Expeditions seeking to climb peaks located in the states of Uttarakhand and Sikkim may refer:

Note:

Expeditions seeking to climb peaks located in the states of Uttarakhand and Sikkim may refer:
20 Special Guidelines issued by the Uttarakhand Govt
21 Special Guidelines issued by the Sikkim Govt

Joint Expeditions

In accordance with the objectives of the IMF, joint mountaineering expeditions are encouraged to promote goodwill and better understanding amongst the countries. Any group of foreigners, their clubs/associations or their sponsors/organizers can apply to the IMF for a joint expedition to peaks in the Indian Himalaya. However, if they wish to join any specific Indian club/association for that particular expedition, they may ask that club to apply separately to the IMF to form part of that expedition. The overallleader of the expedition will be the Indian team leader while the foreign team leader will be the deputy leader. Charges for joint expeditions will be the same as for the other expeditions. Handling charges will be paid by the foreign component whereas the Indian component is exempted from such payment. A joint expedition shall also be accompanied by a LO appointed by the IMF.

Expeditions to Eastern Karakoram

For expeditions to the Karakoram region, the Govt of India has divided the region into three areas. Ten joint expeditions or purely Indian expeditions may be permitted each year, after acceptance of the application and clearance by the Govt of India. Details are as follows:

(a)

Area `A' Six expeditions per year

-Saser Kangri - I
-Saser Kangri - II
-Saser Kangri - III

(b)

Area `B Three expeditions per year - Unnamed peak (6010 M)

 -Mamostong Kangri, Rimo Group of peaks ,Unnamed Peak (6010 M)

(c)

Area `C One expedition per year

 -Apsaras I, II, III
-Teram Kangri I,II,III
-Singhi Kangri, Sia Kangri
-Ghaint I and II
-Indira Col

A maximum of six foreigners and six Indians on each expedition to the East Karakoram region will be permitted. Minimum strength of such an expedition will be two each. The LO for joint expeditions to the Eastern Karakoram will be an Indian Army Officer.

Search & Rescue

In case of accident or death of an expedition member, the leader shall notify the LO who shall report this to the nearest police station and get in touch with the District Commissioner/Magistrate or the nearest Civil/Army/Police authorities for assistance. If any assistance is needed from the military or para - military forces, the LO shall arrange the same. If a helicopter is needed to search /rescue/evacuate an injured/ ill person, arrangements can be made for evacuation to the nearest hospital. Charges for helicopter rescue sorties, including the abortive ones due to bad weather, are to be paid at the prescribed govt rates for each helicopter sortie, depending upon the flight time, etc. The charges are to be borne by the expedition team.

Insurance of Team Members, Headmen & Porters

Members of the expedition must have insurance cover for accident risks and ground/ helicopter search and rescue. A copy of the insurance policy is required to be handed over to the IMF at the time of briefing of the expedition in New Delhi. This insurance policy should have a clause that in the event of an accident, all charges connected with ground/helicopter search and rescue would be covered.

All expeditions/tour operators concerned would insure mountain guides, porters, HAP and cooks etc. supporting them, against accident for the entire duration of the expedition.


Penalty and Caution

Any member of an expedition/tour operators (if expedition organized through an agency), if found climbing or attempting to climb a peak without permit from IMF or violating the environment protection rules, shall be liable to be debarred from undertaking any mountaineering expedition in India for a period ranging from 02 to 05 years or a fine ranging from two to four times the amount of handling charges for the permit or both.In addition, they may be dealt with under the relevant laws.

Indian Expeditions

(Indian Users can also apply for Expedition using offline method.Download the attached application form. Download )

This section contains the Guidelines for planning and conduct of expeditions, financial assistance admissible from IMF, Application for Expedition and the Expedition Report has to be submitted online As the expedition organiser we would encourage you to be fully aware and compliant with various conditions in regard to issue of the permit being issued by the IMF

Environment Guidelines

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation has established guidelines with a view to ensure that the Indian Himalaya is maintained well. It is imperative that expeditions do not find mountaineering gear and garbage at base camp and on the mountain, left by earlier expeditions. The IMF has laid down general and specific instructions for garbage and equipment management by an expedition..

General Instructions for Garbage Management:


All members as well as the support staff must be thoroughly briefed and trained adequately for them to be able to differentiate between Biodegradable and Nonbiodegradable waste and its mode of disposal
At altitudes in excess of the snow line, natural decomposition processes are slowed, thus the waste pollutes the mountain for many years. It should be a conscious effort to leave the camp-sites and trails cleaner than they were found.

Specific instructions related to Disposal of Waste on the Mountain:

Bio-degradable waste is a type of waste that can be broken down into its base compounds by micro-organisms, air, moisture or soil in a reasonable amount of time. It includes green waste, food, paper, bio-degradable plastics, human waste etc. Bio-degradable waste is to be suitably disposed only below the snow line.
At Base Camp a deep Toilet hole must be dug in soil and all human excretion produced must be dumped in it during the teams stay.
Bio-degradable kitchen waste has to be deposited in a deep hole at base camp which is to be covered at the end of the expedition.
Non-biodegradable waste is a type of waste that cannot be broken down into its base compounds by micro-organisms, air, moisture or soil. Unlike biodegradable waste, nonbiodegradable waste remains stable indefinitely. Because non-biodegradable waste cannot be broken down, recycling is the only option. Non-biodegradable waste includes rubber, Styrofoam, plastic, glass, metals etc.

Non-biodegradable waste is to be:

Collected in sacks and carried down from the camps to the road head.
Disposed at or below the road head.
Must be disposed by submission to vendors and other local garbage collectors in the area or as directed by local authorities.

Specific instructions related to Mountaineering Equipment:

All ropes and technical climbing equipment must be retrieved and carried back except in the cases where safety is likely to be compromised. Non compliance of this instruction must be supported by reasons in the expedition report.
All tents, bivouac material and other permanent camp stores should not be left behind on the mountain.

Instructions for Compliance of Environment Guidelines:

Photo Evidence- pertaining to garbage disposal and equipment retrieval must be included in the expedition report.
Teams observing noncompliance of IMF guidelines by earlier expeditions are requested to present photographic evidence to IMF.
IMF representatives are being deployed to conduct random checks on expeditions on the mountains and collect evidence of any violations of IMF guidelines.

Safety Guidelines

Disclaimer: Safety advisory section as stated below is not intended to contain comprehensive material but rather serve asimportant basic points which have evolved over the years from previous expeditions.

Subject

Advisory Details

Planning

Choice of the climbing objective must be a function of expertise, experience, technical

Insurance

Additional clause for altitude and exposure related physiological conditions (Frost Bite, Hypothermia, HAPE,and HACEetc.) should preferably be included in the scope of insurance or covered through a separate 'Medi claim' policy.

Gear Check

Use quality gears particularly the high dependence items such as: ropes (inspection, palpation and aging), runners and slings, carabiners, harness and helmets. It is recommended that safety helmets and inter camp communication equipment Is carried and used by team members

Medical Experience

The team leader should obtain a medical fitness certificate for undertaking the expedition from each member. The team should preferably include a doctor or paramedic.

Medical Courses

Expedition Leader and Member's are advised to participate in Training program titled Emergency Responder First Aid for Wilderness. Program schedule is available on IMF website

Weather

Do a pre-climb mountain weather check but remember to do a day-to-day corroboration with visual inspection as Himalaya are notorious for sudden development of un-expected severe micro weather systems and also consult a local guide .

Additional Information for Leader

1. Qualifications for Leader: Should be above 25 years of age and qualified inadvance mountaineering course from a recognized Institute. Should have participated in at least two expeditions to peaks above 6,400m and reached the summit of at least one peak above 6,400m.
2. Qualifications & Composition of Team: The team should have adequate number of members qualified on advance mountaineering courses with experience of expeditions. Up to two members with high altitude trekking, rock climbing and related experience, may be included. The team finally selected should be capable of dealing with all possible contingencies.
3. Equipment Hiring from IMF: Equipment would be available for hire against security deposit and would be subject toavailability.
4. Boarding/Lodging at IMF: Dormitory for 30 persons is available at IMF on first-come firstserve basis.
5. Working hours at IMF: 10am to 5pm from Monday to Saturday except - holidays and secondSaturdays.
6. Booking of Peaks: Would be done on first come first serve basis. A delay in submission of applicationand documents could result in cancellation of the provisional booking of the peak.
7. Duration of Expedition: Peak(s) bookings are valid for 30 to 45 days from Base Camp to Base Camp. The permit will be granted for the same duration to maximum up to 30 to 35 climbing members. The mountains attracting more climbers than above will be given climbing permit with the gap of 10 days. The team members should be educated and be prepared to attempt the mountain alongside other expeditions.
8. Report and certificate: The IMF will issue the "Climb Certificate" only after the receipt of expedition report. Prior to the issue of "Climb Certificate", IMF may review the report through IMF Expedition Report Verification Committee. In case of any irregularity in the report, suitable regulatory action will be taken against the expedition.
9. Member in a Team: All expeditions, including joint expeditions, will have a maximum twelve and minimum two climbing members. Expeditions will not be allowed to take trekking parties, film crews or others as additional members.
10. Any member of an expedition/tour operators (if expedition organized through an agency), found climbing or attempting to climb a peak without permit from IMF or violating the environment protection rules, shall be liable to be debarred from undertaking any mountaineering expedition in India for a period ranging from 02 to 05 years. In addition, they may be dealt with, under the relevant laws. For any accident due to negligence on the mountain, Leader shall be held accountable and debarred from participating in mountaineering expeditions for a period ranging from 02 to 05 years.

Expedition Reporting Guidelines

Leader is required to forward Expedition report to IMF within two months of first summit attempt. The guidelines for filling the report are available on IMF website.

1.

Route with Itinerary (Beyond and up to base Camp) year

Attach

2.

Summit Attempts (Brief description enclosing photographic proofs)

3.

Have you left the mountain clean and brought back all the garbage as per laid down environment guidelines

4.

Note on local culture, flora and fauna