Expeditions in Uttrakhand in 2000
Garhwal - Nilkanth (6596m)
Expedition- British
Leader- Martin Moran
Period- May to June 2000
Result
On June 1st, the British expedition led by Martin Moran made the first ascent of the West Ridge of Nilkanth (6596m). This ice spire rising directly above Badrinath temple is one of the most beautiful summits of the Indian Himalaya and has maintained an enigmatic reputation with only a few known ascents in 50 years of attempts from all sides.
After a 5-day climb John Leedale, Andy Nisbet and Jonathan Preston (UK) and Casper Venter (South Africa) made it to the top with Moran. The route involved an initial danger of serac fall on the climb from base camp, but thereafter was relatively safe with rock pitches up to IV+, some sustained Scottish grade II and III mixed climbing and a fine corniced summit ridge at an overall grade of D+/TD-. The team fixed 200m of rope around pinnacles at the foot of the ridge but thereafter climbed in Alpine-style a 6-day round trip from base camp.
First inspected by Edmund Hillary during his first visit to the Himalaya in 1951 the West Ridge was most recently attempted by British climbers Chris Pasteur and Duncan Tunstall in 1993, who had to retreat from 5850m due to altitude sickness.
During the Nilkanth ascent other groups from the party explored the unclimbed Panpatia range of peaks to the south, known as Vishnu Ghar Dhar (Vishnus Fortress), making the first ascent of Point 5919m at PD+/AD-standard (for which the name Lakshmis Peak is proposed), followed by the first recorded crossing of the 5200m Panpatia Col to Madhyamaheshwar temple and Kalimath.
The party was lucky to enjoy excellent weather during the climbing period from May 17th to June 2nd, 2000. On the day of return to base camp after the Nilkanth climb the weather broke and a week of heavy rains commenced. A wealth of other exploration remains to be tackled on the other peaks of the Panpatia range, notably 6257 m Parvati Parvat and Pt 5968 m. However, the glacier approaches to many of the peaks are difficult.
Garhwal - Abi Gamin & Mukut Parvat East (6,600 m)
Expedition- Korean
Leader- Nam-il Kim
Period- July-August
Result
The Korean team of 15 members established their base camp on 3rd August with the help of 150 porters.
The team had climbed Mukut Parvat East II (the lower peak) two years before. They approached the mountain from Badrinath and followed the route to center of both the peaks. Common camps were set up for both peaks. Finally, on 11th August, they established camp 3 at around 6,600 m. Mukut Parvat East was climbed by 3 members on 22nd August and 4 members reached the summit on 26th August. Abi Gamin was climbed by 3 members on 27th August.
Garhwal - Arwa Spire (6,193 m)
Expedition- British
Leader- Kenton Cool
Period- September-October
Result
This shapely peak in the remote Arwa valley was first noticed by an Indian expedition in 1997. In 1999, the British team climbed Arwa Tower (6,352 m) for the first time. This year a six member British team with Kenton Cool as their leader attempted Arwa Spire in the post-monsoon season. Their initial attempt on the mountain via North face was unsuccessful. They changed their route and succeeded via the East Ridge. On 11th October, Peter and Andrew Benson reached the virgin summit and they were followed by Alan Powell, Kenton Cool and Ian Parneel on 16th October.
Garhwal - Bhagirathi II (6,512 m)
Expedition- French
Leader- E. Ratouis and B. Hassler
Period- May
Result
The successful climb occured by Irma Wolf and Bruno Hassler via the East face on 10th May. It also climbed on 22nd May by B. Laubert, F. Gendarme and I. Retat.
Garhwal - Bhagirathi III (6,454 m)
Expedition 1- Swedish
Leader- Hendrik Kuiper
Period- August - September
Result
The climb was unsuccessful. Hendrik Kuiper and Peter formed the two-member team and attempted the peak via the West pillar. On 11th September they retreated due to bad weather and extreme cold.
Expedition 2- German
Leader- Walter Hoelzler
Period- September - October
Result
The climb was unsuccessful. This German team of 4 members could reach up to 5800 m but heavy snowfall and ice on the route stopped their attempt.
Garhwal - Gangotri (6,672 m)
Expedition- Italian
Leader- Massiuo Pagani
Period- September - October
Result
The attempt was unsuccessful. The Italian team consisting of 8 members reached at around 5,800 m from where they had to retreat because of heavy snowfall and bad weather.
Garhwal - Jogin I (6,465 m)
Expedition- British
Leader- Paul Farmer
Period- September - October
Result
The attempt was unsuccessful. This 6 member British team attempted the peak in the Kedarganga valley in the post monsoon season. On 2nd October they had to turn back from 5,900 m due to too much unconsolidated snow.
Garhwal - Satopanth (7,075 m)
This is one of the most frequently attempted seven thousanders of the Gangotri region.
Expedition 1- Spanish
Leader- Edurado Cuber Cabrera
Period- June
Result
The attemp was unsuccessful. The team of 8 climbers attempted the peak on 6th June and on 13th June. Both the attempts were foiled by bad weather.
Expedition 2- Indian (Pune)
Leader- Patade Rajesh (5 members)
Period- August 2000
Result
On 21st August the team was set up on the Nandanvan Plateau on the Gangotri glacier. They passed Vasuki Tal and reached Camp 1 on the 29th. On 1st September they left at 8.30 a.m. to attempt the summit directly from Camp 1 at about 6000 m. Nikrant Shinde fell and his fall was arrested by Rajesh Patade. However Nikrant had broken a finger and suffered bruises and the expedition was called off.
Expedition 3- Swiss
Result
Unsuccessful. No details are available of this attempt.
Garhwal - Shivling (6,543 m)
Expedition 1- French
Leader- E. Ratouis and B. Hassler
Period- May June
Result
On 30th May, Irma Wolf and Bruno Hassler reached the summit of Shivling by the West ridge.
Expedition 2- German
Leader- This was a two-member team comprising Huber Thomas and Huber Alexander.
Period- May-June
Result
Huber Alexander fell ill early in the expedition. Hence Huber Thomas teamed up with a member from the Swiss expedition, Ivan Wolf made an ascent via the north ridge direct on 31st May. This was one of the finest climbs on Shivling in several years and they have called it "Shivas Line". Both received the German award of Le Piolet d'Or for this climb.
Expedition 3- American Canadian expedition
Leader- Ms. Karen McNeil
Period- September-October
Result
This American Canadian ladies team of four members initially attempted the East ridge from 22nd to 28th September but this attempt could not succeed. Afterwards they attempted the peak by the West ridge and after establishing two camps en route the leader with Ms Sue Nott reached the summit on 3rd October.
Expedition 4- Swiss
Leader- A two member team of F. Markus and B. Romen
Period- October
Result
Unsuccessful. The pair reached up to 6000 m where too much snow prevented further progress.
Expedition 5- French
Leader- M. Francois
Period- September
Result
Unsuccessful. This seven-member team attempted Shivling via the North face. They had to stop 150 m below the top due to bad weather.
Expedition 6- French
Leader- Emmanuel Pozzera
Period- August
Result
Unsuccessful. This seven-member team attempted Shivling via the West reached but the attempt was called off due to bad weather.
Expedition 7- Indian
Leader- Dilip Naskar
Period- August to September
Result
Unsuccessful. It was six member team which attempted the normal route. However a bad storm on 23rd September forced them to retreat.
Garhwal - Nanda Kot (6,861 m)
Expedition- Indian
Leader- Basanta Singha Roy
Period- October 2000
Result
A famous peak on the Milam Valley trail. After proceeding along the Gori Ganga, base was established at 4140 m in the Lwan valley. After two more camps they reached 6100 m on 19th October when they found the terrain too difficult and returned.
Thalay Sagar (6,904 m)
Expedition- Korean
Leader- Hwang Won Chel
Period- August to September
Result
The Korean team consisting of 8 members established their base camp on 15th August. They faced occasional bad weather. They chose the Northwest ridge for their attempt. On 10th September, Jeong Il Oong and Kim Jun Mo successfully reached the summit.
Garhwal - Rataban (6167 m)
Expedition 1- Indian (Howrah)
Leader- Kaushik Bhattacharya
Period- August 2000
Result
This team approached the peak from Bhuidhar valley (Valley of Flowers) setting up 3 camps, the last one on the pass at about 5490 m. They faced bad weather but finally on 27th August the leader with 5 members and three HAPs reached the summit. The summiteers were Soneh Lahiri, Baidyanath Santra, Binod Kr. Ram, Rakhal Ghosh and Amit Patra.
Expedition 2- Indian (Bengal)
Leader- Suman Guhaneogi
Period- June 2000
Result
This team approached the peak from Kosa valley near Malari. Three camps were set up on the Kosa Kunar glacier. They attempted the top on 18th June but were stopped at 6010 m as a large crevasse barred their way.
Expedition 3- Indian (Calcutta)
Leader- Amulya Sen
Period- June 2000
Result
This team also approached the peak from Bhuidhar valley (Valley of Flowers) and set up their Camp 3 at 5150 m near the pass. The summit was attempted on 3rd July but they stopped about 60 m below the peak as a hail storm caught up with them.
Garhwal - Sudarshan Parvat (6,507 m)
Expedition 1- Indian (Calcutta)
Leader- Bivujit B. Mukhoty (12 members)
Period- August 2000
Result
They followed the now popular east ridge approach. BC was set up at Thelu-Raktavarna glaciers junction on 28th August and three more camps were set on the Swetvarna Glacier till 6000 m. However due to persistent bad weather and lack of time they gave up the attempt at 6000 m on 2nd September.
Expedition 2- Indian (Jamshedpur)
Leader- Rajendra Singh Pal (9 members)
Period- June 2000
Result
This team also followed the same approach as above. They finally followed the route of first ascent (1981) and the summit was reached on 9 th July via the east ridge. Summiteers were N. S. Panwar, R. S. Pal and R. Bhat.
Garhwal - Chandra Parvat (6,507 m)
Expedition- Indian (Durgapur, Bengal)
Leader- P C Nath (13 members)
Period- May-June 2000
Result
This beautiful peak has two summits and stands on the Suralaya Bamak. The team proceeded along the Gangotri glacier to Suralaya Bamak setting up ABC and two more camps on the mountain. Finally on 30th May the ridge which rises from the Suralaya Bamak was climbed to the summit. Summiteers were P C Nath, Monotosh Majumdar, Bahadur and Thapa.
Garhwal - Peak 5242 m (East of Panch Chuli-V)
Expedition- Indian (Calcutta)
Leader- Pradeep Kr Kar (16 members)
Period- May 2000
Result
The main intention of the team was to attempt the virgin peak of Panch Chuli III from the eastern approaches. They approached from Son Duktu village and through the Meola Glacier. However considering the difficulties of Peak III they decided to climb the peak which rises on the ridge falling from the long ridge of Panch Chuli V, to the south of the Meola Glacier. This gentle peak was climbed on 22nd may by S. Majumdar, Arup Saha, Moloy Kanti Halder and leader.
Garhwal - Deoban (6,855 m)
Expedition- Indian (Nawabgunj, Bengal)
Leader- Pallab Das (16 members)
Period- July 2000
Result
This is a high peak situated near Kamet. This team set up a BC at Vasuki Tal and followed the long ridge falling from Bidhan Parvat. On 18 th July Camp 4 was set up at 6400 m. However bad weather forced them to wait at this camp for 2 days and as there was no improvement in the weather, the attempt was given up.
Garhwal - Chaturangi (6,407 m)
Expedition- Indian ladies expedition (Calcutta)
Leader- Ms. Rupa Santra (14 members)
Period- September-October 2000
Result
A well known peak in the Gangotri Glacier group. The ladies expedition followed the route from along the glacier to set up series of three camps n the mountain. The summit was reached on 1 st October by Ms. Rupa Santra, Ms. Barnail Mukherjee and Ms. Angibi Devi.