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Steve Long, Chairman of the Training Standards Panel of the UIAA recently trekked the Chadar (Frozen River Trek) on Zanskar in Ladakh. During his trek, he was witness to an accident where two local girls were swept under the Chadar ice. He pulled them out of the river and managed to revive one girl, the other unfortunately died.

Having observed the trekkers and guides during the Chadar trek, Steve has made some recommendations. A synopsis of these recommendations given below may be treated as an IMF advisory.

Consequences of an ice collapse are extremely serious. Quick action needs to be taken in the event of a victim being swept under ice following an ice collapse. It is recommended that:-

  • Designated leader should wear crampons or microspikes of a reputed brand/quality and carry an ice axe so that when required they can assist others.
  • One person per 10 should carry a throw-bag on person or outside of backpack.
  • All trekkers must wear at least a small pack, to improve flotation.
  • All ice-bound rescuers should be roped if possible in case of further ice collapse.
  • Party of 10 must have 30 metres of low stretch rope, 2 slings, 4 carabiners and1 spare sleeping bag in case of loss or other damage (eg soaking).
  • Sleeping bag and clothes should be packed in watertight bags
  • Unfastening waist and chest straps is recommended for narrow sections.
  • If in doubt of the stability of ice, use river bank if possible
  • The entire party should be briefed about the seriousness of immersion and action to be taken in such an event. Such briefing should include the following advice.
    • In the event of falling in to water, scream to attract attention. Try to grab the bank and hang on. If swept away, your bag will provide some flotation, but face down. If possible remove it and fix to chest instead. Fight to remain on surface. If unable to reach a bank or shallow, aim for whirlpool or eddy if possible
  • In the event of immersion rescue,
    • Replace wet clothes immediately
    • For hypothermia cases use sleeping bags and hot water bottles to revive casualty.
    • Erect tent and warm interior with stoves for serious cases.
    • Keep close watch of other party members in case of hypothermia.

Note:- Comments on this advisory may be sent to safety@indmount.org

 

Inside Apex Volume 9

(Click Here OR on bottom right to Download)

Expedition Reports

  • 6,751m Unnamed Peak, East Karakoram, First Ascent - Kristjan Erik Suurvali
  • Chiling ll, North Face, Zanskar Himalaya - Alexander Mathie
  • Lalana Peak, Himachal Himalaya - Indranil Kumar
  • Treks and Explorations
  • Trans Himachal 2018 - Peter Van Geit
  • Final Frontier, The Rock Art of Nubra Valley - Viraf M. Mehta
  • Planning an Expedition in the Indian Himalaya
  • Booking your peak with the IMF
  • Fast Track Permits & Select Featured Peaks
  • Virgin Peaks in the Indian Himalaya

At the IMF

  • 3rd IMF Mountain Film Festival
  • Sports Climbing Competitions 2019
  • 1st IMF Risk Management Meet
  • IMF News

In the Indian Himalaya

  • News and events in the Indian Himalaya
  • Book Releases
  • Recent books released on the Indian Himalaya
  •  
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The IMF Membership Form is available for download. Click on download pdf to download the form.

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Combined National Ranking of All India Sport Climbing Competitions - September 2019

New National Records were set in Speed  Climbing on 15 mtr Climbing Wall during All India Sport climbing Competition at Chemchey, Sikkim on 08 September 2019:-

 (a) Men Category

  •       Previous Record set by Adarsh Singh in May 2019 in China --6.835 secs
  •       Deepu recorded 6.82 secs on 08 September 2019 breaking previous record of ADARSH SINGH.
  •      Within minutes Adarsh Singh clicked 6.69 secs breaking the record of Deepu.
  •      NEW RECORD BY ADARSH SINGH 6.69 SECS

(b) Women Category

  • Previous Record set by Anisha Verma in Apr 2019 at Delhi -- 11.75 secs.
  • Anisha broke her own record by clicking 10.75 secs.
  • NEW RECORD BY ANISHA VERMA 10.75 SECS
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For the Climbing Season 2020 IMF has decided to give 50%  discounts on handling charges to encourage the Foreign Climbers to climb peaks in Indian Himalaya.   Details of  Discounts on handling charges offered are attached for information.

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Pleased to share the latest volume of Apex newsletter for your kind perusal and comments. Volume 10 features the following:
 
1. Expedition reports 
               Menthosa - by Spencer Gray & Rushad Nanavatty
               Nanda Devi East - Rajsekhar Maity
 
2. Photo Feature
               Dibibokri Pyramid & Ice Sail - Vinay Hegde
 
3. Treks and Explorations
                Barafsar Lake - J Ramanan
                Trans-Himachal 2019: 120 Passes in 4 months - Peter Van Geit
4. Special Feature
                 Remembering Hillary on his 100th birth anniversary - Capt. M S Kohli
 
5. Planning an Expedition in the Indian Himalaya
                 Opening up of New Peaks & Ease of Climbing Initiatives
                 Select featured peaks
                 Virgin peaks 
 
6. In the IMF
                Himalayan Mountaineering & Tourism Meet
                Pre-Everest Massif IMF expedition to Mt Trishul
                Certificate Course in Mountain Medicine
                Other IMF news
              
7. News from the Indian Himalaya
 
8. Book Releases.