On the Siachen Glacier, 1998

by Harish Kapadia

Part 3: To Indira Col

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The glacier ahead was completely snow-bound even during peak of the summer months. Almost 30 to 40 ft of snow covers the entire glacier in winter and cold intensifies to below 40 degrees C. We were visiting the glacier during best time of the year and to the easiest part of the glacier. Still the cold and difficulties were evident. The glacier flattens out ahead of the centre of the glacier. Soon we passed a side-entrant leading to Bilafond la (butterfly shaped glacier) in the west. This was the Lolofond glacier (named after Dr Tom Longstaff). It was small and flat and joined the Siachen after a small expanse . The historic peak of Tawiz (6400 m) was dominating the sky. To the northwest another historic peak rose its head, Hawk (6754 m). This peak was to remain as a flag pole with us throughout now onwards on the glacier.

The great site of Saltoro Kangri peaks (7742 and 7705 m) rising on the Peak 36 glacier was unforgettable. Sheer size and difficulties of rock walls on its slopes makes it a great objective. Today Saltoro Kangri II (7705 m) is one of the highest unclimbed peaks in the world.

After further four camps we were nearing the head of the glacier. There were not many difficulties, except for few crevasses. We walked short marches in excellent weather. Soon we passed another valley in the west leading to Sia La and Convey Saddle, both historic places. The Siachen glacier was still very broad and on its eastern edge rose two shapely pinnacles (Staghar Towers I and II), There was a deep notch to its south. This was Staghar Pass through which the Japanese expedition had crossed to the east to make the first ascent of Singhi Kangri. Soon we were nearing our goals. Sia Kangri I (7422 m) and II (7092 m) (formerly known as Hardinge) were near. Their stupendous walls were threatening avalanches and all camps were placed carefully away from them. Our last camp on the glacier was little above the Ridge Camp of Bullock-Workman in 1912.

First we decided to reach Turkestan La (East) (5810 m). It lay on the head of an eastern valley. On 20th July 1998 four of us with LO and a Sherpa left by 6.30 a.m. Winding a way through crevasse and going up a gentle valley, we were at the la in 2 hours, overlooking the Staghar glacier. The eastern slopes gently led down to the glacier and ice-penitents of the Staghar glacier were clearly seen. The view in the south included several peaks around the Singhi Kangri ridge, with Staghar Pass clearly visible. One could admire the tenacity of the Japanese team in 1976 to have crossed Bilafond la and Staghar Pass to ultimately climb the steep and sharp ridge of Singhi Kangri.

The ridge, on which we were standing, rose gently towards north and a deep notch was seen on it. This was the Turkestan La (North) which was reached by Col. Francis Younghusband (later Sir) in 1889. It is sometimes fondly called Colonels Col. Discussing the locations with the army, we found that there was much confusion about names, heights and location of the passes and cols on the Indira ridge. This is a long ridge leading from foot of Sia Kangri to Colonels Col and turning south to Turkestan La (East). This is the northernmost ridge of India at present and it forms a major divide between South and Central Asia. It is essential to clearly note the exact locations of cols on this ridge.