Nanda Devi East 2005

Area: Kumaon

Height: 7434 m

Team: Italian expedition

Team Size: 9 members, 2 Sherpas, 2 HAS

Leader: Marco Dalla Longa

Period: August to September

Result: Unsuccessful (climbed Nanda Lapak)

Summary

Marco Dalla Longa led a large Italian expedition of twelve members. They approached the peak from Munsiary and the Milam valley. The base camp was established on 31st August and they followed the eastern face with the middle pyramidal structured rock. Three camps were set up to 5400m by 7th September. Despite tough conditions, the Italian team made good progress on Nanda Devi East, through the Central Pillar on the East face. Divided into three working teams, the CAI Bergamo expedition reached top of the first tower on the Pillar.

They fixed ropes and were proceeding towards the summit when a long spell of bad weather from 9th September to 18th September made them sit up at the higher camps. As the route was not suitable for climbing, the team climbed Nanda Lapak (5782 m) on 23rd September. P. Yuri, M. Pierongelo, Cristian and C. Ferruccio reached the summit via the southern ridge of Nanda Lapak.

Towards the end of the expedition, tragedy struck the Italian team on Nanda Devi: Expedition leader Marco Dalla Longa passed away suddenly.

A helicopter for his rescue was requested. However due to bad weather it took four days for the rescue to be effected. Finally he died by a coma stroke on 24th September. The team’s doctor suspected cerebral oedema. An autopsy is to be performed in Italy to confirm the exact cause of death. Marco was young and fit, with no health problems reported during the expedition.

The entire expedition was evacuated by air from 27th September to Munsiary and to Delhi by air the next day.