Area: Uttarakhand - Kumaun (on Nanda Devi Sanctuary wall)Sikkim
Height: 6866 m
Team 1: British expidition
Team Size: 3
Leader: Nicholas Bullock
Period: August to September
Result: Unsuccessful
Summary
The three-member expedition with leader, Stuart Mclean and Ollie Saunder planned to attempt the west face of Changabang. They set up the base camp on 9th September on the Bagini glacier and attempted the summit till 6200m. They found adverse weather conditions with deep snow on the face making the climb very dangerous. A few days later a big snowfall over two days left about one and half metre snow, increasing difficulties. Hence the climb was given up.
Team 2: Dutch expidition
Team Size: 4
Leader: Melvin Rederkar
Period: September to October
Result: Unsuccessful
Summary
A four-member team including the leader set up their base camp on Bagini Kharak from Dunagiri village. They were attempting the north face of this high peak. Base camp was set up on 25th August and advanced base camp on 1st September. They were to climb in Alpine style and in first two weeks of good weather, they progressed well. However, from 10th September, a spell of heavy snowfall and bad weather caught them unawares and nearly all equipment was buried under 4-5 m of snow, including most of the gear, 600 m of rope and pitons and other stuff. They had reached maximum 5750m on 25th September and later could not proceed to the summit.
Team 3: Korean expidition
Team Size: 5
Leader: Chung Seung Kwon
Period: August to September
Result: Unsuccessful
Summary
The expedition established base camp at 4200m on a large meadow on the eastern side of the Bagini glacier. Their intention was to attempt the north face and the left hand side ice gully. They wanted to follow this from the left corner of the overhang and on to the summit. The ABC (5200 m) was on 10th May on the glacier, Camp 1 (5700 m) was established on 24th May, below the ledge above the ice gully and Camp II at 5950m on 31st May, about 300 m above. It was around this time that uncertain weather caught up with them and there were snow showers everyday making the route and the face very dangerous to climb. They returned to base camp n 7th June and gave up the climb.