IMF Blog Post

Primer for doing a Basic Mountaineering course in India

Post on: 12/10/2012 [5 month(s) ago]
Post by: A Climber

Primer for doing a Basic Mountaineering course in India

Intended audience: first time mountaineers; general mountain enthusiasts; folks enrolled/thinking of enrolling for a basic mountaineering course in India, at any of the government run mountaineering schools

Disclaimer:

  1. A course in Basic mountaineering can be hazardous.  The information provided here is designed for educational use only and is not a substitute for specific training or experience. The author assumes no liability for any individual’s use of or reliance upon any material contained or referenced herein. The material contained in this article may not be the most current.
  2. This blog is based on my experience at NIM (Nehru Institute of MountaineeringUttarkashi,Uttarakhand, India) and ABVIMAS (Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied SportsManali, India). Your experience at any of these institutes  might be different. Hence, please have an open mind while perusing this blog. That said, objective critique is always welcome!
  3. This blog is written keeping an absolute novice in mind.
  4. Intended for a global audience.
  5. This blog is NOT a memoir.
“]A line of mountaineers heading toward Mt Blanc

A line of mountaineers heading toward Mt. Blanc [Photo credit: Ashok Boghani

OK, lets begin…

First things first:

 Why to attend a Basic Mountaineering course:

  •  Forge some amazing friendships, with people from all over  the world

  • Listen (to your instructors and fellow students), learn (by observing: your body and mind (physical and mental reactions in times of stress), the nature (flora and fauna) around you, behaviour of instructors and fellow students), and enjoy (being in the lap of nature, company of your friends and instructors)

  • Try to find some meaning, from your experience at the institute, also called “experiential learning”. You might have to delve deep within you, and come out with some positives. For e.g. snippet from a blog on Basic mountaineering course at HMI,Darjeeling                                                                                                                              

 “hi Holden
The picture of the meals served at HMI brought back nostalgic memories.
Even though nothing seemed perfect at the time of the course, bad food, bad weather conditions, heavy loads to carry, misfit boots, crowded rooms, bad training…on and on goes the complaints. But looking back, I feel those were the happiest times of my life. I found friends who supported and encouraged me at every point in the course. Those times of hardships made for closer bonding because there was always sharing and caring among the course members. When I could not find a foot hold and kept slipping one of the course members offered his palm and I stepped on it to move higher, tea and maggi noodles at the canteen was always sponsored by someone or the other, during the morning 5 kms jogging when I was tired and panting someone always took my hand nd pulled me to run further…at the base camp I slipped and fell into snow upto my thighs and could not move. with every struggle i moved deeper into snow. some of my friends saw me and pulled me out. They lent me their boots and socks because I did not have any…People from diverse backgrounds are drawn by the bonds of friendship and the result is a mountaineer.. determined, hardened and disciplined but at the same time compassionate. Ready to climb from peak to peak.I completed my adventure, Basic and Advance course from HMI, Darjeeling.Shikha
India”
 
 Why NOT to attend a Basic Mountaineering course:
  •  If you think by doing this course, you’re going to have a good time in the mountains
  • Caveat: Please bear in mind that, it would be extremely foolish to do this course, if your impulse to do to this course were pictures of certain mountains or wild spots in the Himalayas, the Alps, Patagonia, Alaska, Southern Alps etc. This course is a hard core mountaineering course, where skills to survive in the mountains are thought. Mountain life is extremely rugged, out-of-your comfort zone, and dangerous!
“]Mt Blanc in Lunar glow

Mt. Blanc bathed in a Lunar glow [Photo credit: Ashok Boghani

What you should do at the institute:
  • Maintain a low profile
  • Don’t try to show-off your stamina
  • Mountaineering is a team sport. Help, support, and encourage others in your rope/team.Remember: You win, only when your team wins!
  • If you’re experienced in the outdoors, help and support fellow students, who are complete novices

Read on…

If you want to experience hell-in-heaven, then a course in basic mountaineering is your ticket to it. The first timers (folks visiting the Himalayas for the first time) have it hard, real hard. The novice, be warned, as there’s going to be suffering, real suffering.

The old timers/ relative old timers/ people ‘active’ in the outdoors don’t suffer so much. Don’t get me wrong, the pain still exists, the old timers just learn to live with it.

Mountaineer in a Paradise Glacier ice cave, Mount Rainier National Park

Mountaineer in a Paradise Glacier ice cave, Mount Rainier National Park (Photo credit: UW Digital Collections)

So, what should one do to minimise this suffering? 

Follow the first rule of boy scouts: Be prepared

There are 2 aspects to your Basic Mountaineering prep.

  1. Mental preparation

  2. Physical preparation

And, I would say mental prep is much more important than physical prep (but don’t commit the mistake of ignoring physical prep) .

Mental Preparation

Be cognisant of the below mentioned information.

What NOT to expect at these mountaineering schools:

  • Low student-to-instructor ratio

  • Latest and/or light weight mountaineering equipment and/or gear

  • That all fellow students have the right idea, what they have got themselves into. For e.g. Some NCC (National Cadet Corps) students in my rope at NIM did not know that this was a mountaineering course. They thought that were going to attend an NCC camp. These poor blokes, were ill prepared for this undertaking. One of them was carrying an heavy, aluminium trunk, stuffed with things that you absolutely do NOT need for the course. Of course, he had almost nothing of the required gear. And, these are the sort of guys, that suffer the most. Most of them fell ill, and had to leave the course.

  • Sumptuous food  at NIM

What to expect at these mountaineering schools:

  • Moderately high safety standards

  • Some breathtaking scenery and vistas

  • Army style training: decorum ,punishment(s), “do as I say and don’t question me much” attitude of the instructors, ?? ??????? ?? ????? ????! :D  

  • Shorts, sandals, and flip flops/slippers to be frowned upon, big time. This has something to do with the image of the institute. But what they don’t seem to understand is that if you are in trekking shoes at all times, then the chances of getting blisters increases exponentially!

  • Cosmopolitan assembly of students, from all over India, with some foreigners

  • Over stuffed student count. There could be more than 100 students, in a batch whose official limit is 40 or 60

  • Sumptuous food at ABVIMAS
  • Instructors showing a great amount of camaraderie at ABVIMAS
  • Well thought out method of instruction at ABVIMAS
  • Feedback of students taken into account at ABVIMAS
  • Partiality shown to students from defence background, e.g. quite often one of the student from defence background is elected as Course In charge

You’re taught  how to survive in the mountains. Mountains are tough, unpredictable, and many times overwhelming places to visit. How can one expect that they would have a gala time, in such an environment? Hence, expect the training to be intense and brutal.

Tip: Try practising a meditation technique, like Vipassana, to increase your level of concentration, and to be able to remain equanimous at all times. I can vouch that Vipassana works wonders!

“]Alaska Range

Alaska Range [Photo credit: Ashok Boghani

Physical Preparation

Try to do as many of the following activities as possible.

  • Mountaineering is basically a lower body activity: you need to have great leg strength. Hence,

  1. Start trekking (ideally long distance, multi-day hikes). And even more ideal is technical hikes, where you might have to cross a glacier, or climb an ice wall.

  2. Start running and/or cycling. I prefer cycling, as it’s easy on the knees.  Read more.

  3. Start rock climbing: to increase your ability to negotiate vertical terrain, build upper body strength

Some info from NOLS.

High altitude mountain travel is demanding, no matter how fit you are.

Almost continual sunlight provides for long, busy days; your fitness goals should focus on being able to sustain a moderate level of exertion for hours on end rather than “quick sprint” fitness. Focus on a well-rounded routine that emphasizes stamina, endurance, flexibility and strength. Finally, don’t ignore the need for balance; this will serve you well in the moraine and boulder fields where the ability to quickly find your center of balance as you move from one step to the next will enable you to dance, rather than stumble your way through. Play with it. Good luck, and have fun!

Dr. Phil Watts, exercise physiologist at Northern Michigan University, has conducted research in conjunction with NOLS mountaineering courses in the North Cascades. The results of this study, in consideration of established principles of physical conditioning, have enabled development of the following general guidelines, which should be helpful in evaluating and improving your physical condition if necessary.

Aerobic (or endurance) capacity is a major factor in mountain travel and most course activities. An individual should have an aerobic capacity that would enable him/her to run 1.5 miles in 11 minutes or less to be well conditioned for extended mountaineering at moderate altitudes. Another useful assessment guideline is an individual should be able to run 5-6 miles in 40-55 minutes or less three times a week.

If you recognize a need for additional aerobic conditioning, begin at least 8-10 weeks prior to the start of the expedition and adhere to the following F.I.T.T. principle:
• Frequency -Exercise 3-5 times per week.
• Intensity -Exercise at about 60-80% of maximum effort. Use the “talk test;” if you are breathing so hard that you can’t converse with a partner, you’re working too hard – slow down a little.
• Time – Exercise sessions should involve an expenditure of about 300-600 calories per session. That’s approximately the equivalent of:
- 3-6 miles of jogging;
-10-25 miles of bicycling over rolling terrain;-20-60 minutes of other aerobic activities such as cross country skiing, swimming, etc.
• Type – The activity selected should be “total-body” – involving the large muscle groups – and should be rhythmical and continuous; it should not be conducted in spurts like sprints and many team sports.

Progress gradually to avoid over-stress and injuries. Work on Time (duration) first, and then begin to increase Intensity.

Flexibility (range of motion) exercise is also important and should involve stretching for all muscle groups. Select a number of stretches for all areas of the body. Stretch “easy” -don’t bounce or over stretch. Maintain each stretch for 10-20 seconds and don’t hold your breath or strain. You should feel tension not pain. Stretching should be done before and after each exercise session.

Developing adequate upper body muscular fitness for your expedition can be relatively simple. Select a number of basic exercises for the upper body and abdominal areas such as push-ups, pull-ups, rope climbing,sit-ups, etc. Perform as many repetitions of each exercise as you can, resting between each exercise, then repeat. Do this basic workout three times per week or on alternate days. If you prefer working out with weights, follow the directions for the equipment you will be using or consult a reputable physical fitness text. Use strength training to supplement your aerobic program, not as a substitute for it.

While everyone has a certain amount of energy stored in the body as fat, excess body fat will increase the work intensity of all activities promoting early fatigue. Assessment of relative body fat usually requires one of several laboratory procedures and may not be available to many individuals. If you think you are significantly overweight, consult your physician about this well in advance of your course. Crash dieting would be a poor method of losing weight before your course. A good program of aerobic exercise, as described above and improved nutritional habits will usually suffice.

Some info from IWLS.

Examples of aerobic exercises include running, cycling, Nordic skiing, and swimming. Ideally you want to start your work out with a warm up of 5-10 minutes at 50-60% of your maximum heart rate, then continue for another 20-60 minutes at 65-80% of your maximum heart rate, and finish with a cool down of 5-10 minutes at 50-60% of your maximum heart rate. This should be practiced 3-4 times a week for up to eight weeks before your course start date. Good conditioning will not only improve your chances for success but will also improve the quality of your course. The possibilities are endless, so get creative and have fun!

“]Evening glow

Matterhorn from Monte Rosa hut [Photo credit: Ashok Boghani

Carry the right gear

 Things that the institute provides, and you need not carry to the institute. If you do have any of these items, by all means, please carry them with you, to the institute.

  1. Down feather jacket (full sleeved at NIM, half sleeved at ABVIMAS) 

  2. Sleeping bag (with a cover at NIM, without a cover at ABVIMAS)

  3. Gaiters

  4. Crampons

  5. Snow shoes (old Koflach at NIM, old and relatively new Koflach, Boreal and Scarpa at ABVIMAS)

  6. Rock climbing/ PA (Perry Allen shoes) (provided only at NIM)

  7. Rucksack (around 70-80 L)

  8. Harness (old, Indian make)

  9. Rope sling (to practice knots)

  10. Plastic cover (to keep your stuff in the backpack dry) (provided only at NIM)

  11. Wind stopper jacket and pant

  12. Woolen balaclava

  13. 1 litre polycarbonate water bottle (provided only at NIM)

  14. Old school, basic, ice axe (you would need to do technical ice climbing with it, as well)

  15. Helmet (good quality)

“]Matterhorn

Matterhorn [Photo credit: Ashok Boghani

Things that you must carry:

Head (most important ;-)

  1. Silk Balaclava (optional – for sleeping)
  2. Mountaineering sunglasses. Quantity -one (if your sunglass is with a lanyard or else carry two, in case you accidently drop the goggles and lose it in an crevase ;-) . Features of ideal sunglasses are:  a) Polarized (Reduce the glare from surfaces like water, snow, and glass. They selectively block out glare, rather than making the whole field of vision dimmer, which can be dangerous in some situations. Read more. )
    b)   Made of polycarbonate         (polycarbonate is shatter resistant, provides excellent transparency and durability, and high refractive index. Read more. )
    c)  Wrap-around lenses offer an extra-wide field of view and coverage. They limit how much stray sunlight reaches your eyes from above and beyond the periphery of your sunglass’s lenses
    d)  Photochromatic lenses darken or lighten depending on the light’s intensity
    e)  Anti-fogging features such as double lenses, anti-fog coating and wide vents.Read more.
    f)   Removable sideshields and moldable temples.
    g)    Low rate of transmission of visible light
    h)  Block 100 percent of UV rays and also absorb most high-energy visible (HEV) rays.Read more.
    i)  Has mirror coatings (these coatings can block an additional 10 percent to 60 percent of visible light for greater comfort in highly reflective full-sun environments. Read more.)
    j)  Anti-reflective coating (Will eliminate glare from sunlight reflecting off the back surface of your sports sunglass lenses surface when the sun is behind you. Read more. and more)
  3. Bands to keep your hair back (for women).
  4. Bandana, bright colored. Can be cotton.The ultimate useful item.
  5. A wide-brimmed sun hat/ peak cap with a legionnaire-style rear fabric flap. And it must be wide-brimmed: a brim that is not capable of throwing the face and neck into shadow is too narrow by far.  Venting holes in the sides of the hat allow air to circulate freely around the crown. Some hats roll up in order to reduce bulk. This feature can be helpful when trekking under a rainforest canopy, allowing the hat to be popped into a pocket and brought out when you step into a sun-kissed clearing. A hat can also protect the face from foliage, which can sometimes be sharp enough to scratch and even puncture the skin. In mosquito country, a head net can be worn over a floppy hat to keep biting insects off the face. (Source: COTSWOLD)

Upper Body

  1. Sports bra for women. Read more about why its essential, here.
  2. High quality, mid weight,one  long underwear top . Also called Long Johns. Try buying a synthetic material (like polyester, polyamide, elastane)/wool as it keeps you warm when needed, cool when needed, and very breathable! Light weight Long Johns can be used as a T-shirt, as they provide better insulation than convetional T-shirts. Read more: herehereand here.
  3. T-Shirts (breathable, UV protection, quick drying, light weight, chose synthetic material like polyester) (Two should suffice). Long sleeves (to prevent sunburn). Synthetic material like polyester is the best, because of its high sweat wicking properties. N.B. Cotton is the worst fabric for outdoors, as it stores sweat and is not breathable.  Cotton absorbs moisture/sweat and the water occupies the space previously occupied by dead air. This means a loss in dead air space, high evaporative cooling, and a garment that is almost impossible to dry out. (Source Princeton University)
  4. Fleece top/jacket. Alternatively, Woolen sweaters. (Quantity:2).

Lower Body

  1. Under-pants (3 should suffice). Ideally, should be breathable, quick drying, light weight, windproof – chose synthetic material like polyester, nylon, polyamide or else wool or a combination of these materials.
  2. One high quality, mid weight, long underwear bottoms.Also called Long Johns. Try buying a synthetic material (like polyester, polyamide, elastane)/wool as it keeps you warm when needed, cool when needed and very breathable!  Read more: herehere and here.
  3. Trekking pants (breathable, UV protection, with pockets, quick drying, light weight, chose synthetic material like polyester) (Two should suffice). Convertible pants/shorts (pants that zipper to shorts) for hiking/ mountaineering – these are worn a lot on the trek and are very practical (Source: ABVIMAS).

N.B. It is also worth ensuring that your clothing has a high CPF or UPF rating.

Hands

  1. Gloves (wool or fleece). 2 Pairs, in case one pair gets wet during snow craft/ice craft
  2. Wool/Synthetic/Pile Mittens. 1 Pair. Mittens keep your hands warmer than gloves. But gloves are needed for dexterity e.g. tying shoe laces.
  3. Water-proof (ideally, GORE-TEX® material) and insulating gloves, for ice craft. (Optional)

Feet

  1. Warm Socks – synthetic/high tech or woolen. (2 Pairs). Should suffice for freezing temperature, at least. Best barnds are Mund (Spain. I use these socks) and Smartwool (US).  Available at REI  (US). Outdoor  gear is available in India at Aventure 18Wildcraft, and Avi Industries.

  2.  Trekking shoes. (1 Pair). Should have been well broken into. Avoid wearing new shoes, to avoid blister menace. Should be waterproof. Leather/GORE-TEX® body+Vibram sole works best! N.B. I use Quechua brand, which is neither leather/GORE-TEX® , nor does is has Vibram soles, but it works!

  3. Extra pair of warm socks for nighttime – not for hiking. (Optional)
  4. Sport sandals (e.g. Tevas). (Good to have).

Miscellaneous

  1. Lip balm (1 stick). A high SPF and mosturizing lip balm. Choose an 100% herbal one, like Himalaya lip balm (available at chemist stores in India).

  2. Energy bars.
    • Nature Valley granola bars are good
    • Make sure the ingredients are made up of whole grains like oats
    • There should be very less or no sugar. Why sugar is bad? Read here.
    • Honey is a great substitute for sugar
  3. Sun screen (30+ SPF) (1 bottle) .

    • Sunscreen not required if you can keep your entire body UV and HEV protected by clothing, umbrella etc.
    • At high altitude you would need to apply sunscreen liberally, repeatedly, & regularly
    • Use SPF 30 or higher, and make sure you reapply sunscreen every two hours if you’re just lying around — and if you’re sweating heavily or swimming, be sure to slather it on every 40 minutes
    • Ninety percent of lotions don’t offer adequate protection–and a few contain ingredients that may be hazardous to your health.Read more: here and here.
    • Sun-Protection Essentials.
  4. Small & personal First-aid kit (optional).

  5. Hunting knife (optional). The no. 1 thing to be carried by an outdoors man. But not really needed in the basic mountaineering course. In case, you are a professional outdoors man or just an outdoor enthusiast, and you are thinking of buying a hunting knife, my suggestion would be: the Gerber-Bear Gryll’s hunting knife, with a flint steel, and emergency whistle. And, I think that it’s also got the perfect weight.

  6. Personal medicines (1 blister pack each of a Paracetamol, Ibrufen/Aspirin, Lomofen (for lose motion; available at most chemist stores in India)). All prescription and/or non-prescription medications you are currently taking.  A broad-spectrum antibiotic prescribed by your doctor (this is required). For the unnitiated: Paracetamol is an analgesic (capable of relieving pain) for mild pain but not for inflammation (a response of body tissues to injury or irritation; characterized by pain and swelling and redness and heat); also used as an antipyretic (Preventing or alleviating fever).                                                                                                                     Ibrufen is a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) used for relief of symptoms of arthritis,constipation, fever,as an analgesic (pain reliever), especially where there is an inflammatory component, and dysmenorrhea.                                                                     Aspirin The acetylated derivative of salicylic acid; used as an analgesic anti-inflammatory drug (trade names Bayer, Empirin, and St. Joseph) usually taken in tablet form; used as an antipyretic; slows clotting of the blood by poisoning platelets.

  7. Dishwasher liquid and a scrubber. Needed to wash your mess tin, in the mountains. Don’t ignore this item.
  8. Poncho. (Optional)
  9. A 2 litre hydration system like Platypus or a Camelbak. (Optional). Buy a one with out the outer pack. Insulator is not needed. N.B. I have stopped using hydration systems and polycarbonate water bottles, as plastic of any quality is harmful to your immune system. Prolonged exposure to water ingested from plastic bottles can even lead to death of a person. Hence, I use metal bottles instead. Only problem being metal is a bit heavier than plastic.
  10. Two, one litre metal water bottles.
  11. Gatorade drink/powder. (Helpful for re-hydration during physical activity.Fluid replacement is needed during and after exercise.Will help to regain your equilibrium.Mostly provides energy, carbohydrates, sodium and potassium (electrolytes) (but check the bottle to confirm).)
  12. Insect Repellent (Optional) (Ingredients may be hazardous to your health). Get one with DEET in it as malaria is a problem in India – the higher the altitude the fewer the mosquitos but mosquitos are found in the Himalayas (Source:ABVIMAS).
  13. Toilet paper.(Optional).(Reduce usage to keep your carbon-footprint-down). Medically speaking, using water is preferred to the toilet paper. In case, you can’t bear the cold in the mountains, after your fingers are wet, I suggest you use a combination of Toilet paper and water. First use the toilet paper, and then some water.
  14. Alcohol based hand sanitizer. (Optional).Useful when water is scare. Ideally, use liquid or toilet soap with water.
  15. Herbal body moisturizer for day & night. (Optional). Use a 100% herbal brand like Himalaya. Avoid Nivea, as it’s all chemicals. Tip: Organic Apricot oil is a great, natural, skin moisturizer. It doesn’t even coagulate in the cold.
  16. Travel size toothbrush, toothpaste, and tooth pick. Use a mouthwash like Clohex at night to kill tartar causing bacteria in the mouth. Else, add some table salt to a glass of warm water and gargle, works equally well.
  17. Nail clipper. Keep your nails short for cleanliness and sanitary reasons. Ideally, should have a tooth-pick attached, to remove dirt from underneath the nails. Should be light weight and small. Should not rust.
  18. Vaccines. The tetanus vaccine is required again after 10 years if the individual is exposed to possible infection. Hepatitis vaccine. Other vaccines as recommended by your physician.
  19. Micropore tape/Moleskin . To prevent blisters, and second skin to protect if you have got a blister.
  20. A thermos that can be used for HOT or COLD water is a good idea. (Optional). Should be light weight. Should not be bulky.
  21. Head lamp. Get extra batteries (ideally Duracell). Head lamp is better than a torch.
  22. Resealable ziplock baggies for toiletries. Helps keep your toiletries waterproof.
  23. A couple of large size garbage bags in case of rain etc. Please note that all the items in the rucksack should be packed in two plastic bags and sealed properly to ensure that water does wet your apparels etc.
  24. Locks for rucksack/room, shelf etc.  (Optional) Ideally, prefer number locks – so that you never-lose-the-keys.
  25. Camera.(Optional). Carry extra batteries, memory card.Carry battery charger. Keep the camera in a plastic bag, for waterproofing. Digital works at high altitudes but be vigilant about usage as you cannot charge your battery in the mountains, generally.
  26. Plane tickets. (Optional).Try to buy at least 2-3 months in advance to get cheapest available tickets.
  27. Living will. For your consideration: depressing but a good idea to have done – make a Living Will which states that you do or do not want to be kept alive in case something happens to you by extraordinary means if you are not brain functioning. (Source:ABVIMAS)
  28. Excellent physical condition. (Required). Be sure to be in excellent physical condition: Staying in good cardiovascular condition.It is also helpful to remain flexible and practice something like yoga or other stretching exercises to prevent injury. (Source:ABVIMAS)
  29. Excellent mental condition.Try Vipassana meditation.
  30.  Umbrella. (Optional).Protects from rain, hail, sun-rays.Carry light weight umbrellas like the 3 piece, folding umbrella.
  31. Open attitude. Very important.
  32. Trekking poles.  If you know it’s importance, you will start using one or two ASAP. I use two. But first, be sure to learn the proper technique of using trekking poles.
  33. Electricity converter for digital camera batteries (not usable during mountain trek but before and after!). India uses 220 volt system. (Source:ABVIMAS)
  34. For International women:                                                                                                                                          (Read Culture Shock-India in depth!) It may be a summer in India (very warm) but it is not appropriate generally to wear Western-style tank tops and shorts outside of remote areas where it is only your trek team around. Bring loose, breathable long sleeve tops and pants, and very few skin baring clothes (esp. if you plan on traveling post-trek in India)! Also – dress covered when visiting temples, monasteries (gompas) and DEFINITELY mosques!                  Women might want to consider wearing a “wedding ring” if not married to prevent some irritation – though it’s impossible to prevent (though a wedding ring in India is not the sign of being married in this country culturally it is somewhat understood as a Western sign of marriage). (Source:ABVIMAS)
  35. PREPARATION: THINGS TO DO/GET BEFORE LEAVING (for International students)!(Source:ABVIMAS)

    • Apply for Visa to Indian Consulateat least 6 weeks prior to trip
    •  Get travelers checks (record numbers separately in case you lose checks), travel card, Indian currency- rupee
    • Buy travel insurance/ Be sure insurance includes emergency evacuation. Also, include trip cancellation, interruption, delay or missed connection, itinerary change, emergency medical benefits/evacuation AND repatriation, baggage, baggage delay, common carrier AD & D (Accidental Death and Dismemberment), 24 Hour A D & D and Travel Assistance)
    • Vaccinations and medications
    • Plane ticket – try to buy at least 2-3 months in advance to get cheapest available tickets during summer high fly season.
  36. Electrol/EmergenC – flavored packets to add to your water bottle that contain high levels of Vitamin C, electrolytes and minerals. Good for the added stress on your body, in case you get a case of diarrhea, and to flavor your water which doesn’t always taste great).(Source:ABVIMAS)
  37. Stuff Sacks of all sizes – all equipment in stuff sacks. (Optional)
  38. Backpack Raincover. (Optional)

Notes (Source Princeton University): Contact lenses can be a problem! Zipper pulls on all clothing and pack zippers. All clothing must be clean. Idiot strings on all mitts/shells. Nonfreezing laces on all boots. Defog all glasses and goggles.

  • Will your shell go over pile, over polypro, over water bottles, over body?
  • Can you get wind/rainpants on with boots on, snowshoes?
  • Can you get gaiters on with boots on?
  • Plan your pack beautifully, so that it takes as little time as possible to get anything out.
  • All extra clothing should be quickly accessible.

 N.B.

  1. The quantity of insulating apparel, depends on your body’s resistance to cold.  If you have mitochondria-from-hell, you can very well do the entire course in shorts and a T-shirt. It’s another thing that shorts are frowned upon, at the institute, even if it’s warm :D
  2. Warm wet clothes in sleeping bag, while sleeping at night.  

Some tips:

  1. It’s important to dress in layers for the cold. Read more, here.
  2. Knowledge of how body heat is lost, and the ways to retain it, is essential for any outdoor pursuit. Read more, here.
  3. One should have some basic knowledge of cold injuries like frostbite ,hypothermia etc. Read more, here.
  4. Know why foot blisters are formed and how to prevent themAnd what to do, if you get one.
  5. Have some basic knowledge of high altitude acclimatization and illnesses. Read more,here.
  6. Know how you can develop your natural resistance to cold  a.k.a mitchondria-from-hell ;)Read more, herehere, herehere, and here.
  7. Drinking plenty of water is important! Read more, here.
  8. Know why food is important, and which foods to intake. Read moreherehere, and here.
  9. Wool is great fabric for outdoors. Read more, here.
  10. It would be a good idea to practice some knots before doing the basic mountaineering course. Some important knots are shown in the videos below. The other knots usually taught in the basic course are Bowline on the bight, Triple bowline, Handcuff, Guide man, End man, Middle man, Italian hitch, Single Fisherman, Double Fisherman, Reef Knot, Single Sheet Bend,Double Sheet Bend, Prussic, French Prussic. See the videos on Youtube, and practice as many knots as you like. The more the better.

Knots

It would be a good idea to practice some knots before doing the basic mountaineering course.

Fixed/ Anchoring knots

  • Clove Hitch Climbing Knot                                                                                                              

  • Clove Hitch for a natural anchor                                                                        

  • Figure of 8 climbing knot, re-thread method, for artificial anchors     

  • Figure of 8 knot for a Natural anchors               

  • Bowline Knot/ Universal Anchoring Knot                                                       

To end with: Try to do your best, after reading this blog, and hopefully understanding what is needed and why. The most important thing would be, show yourself, before the course commences, at the institute, irrespective of the level of your preparation. And, at some point in time, if you have to leave the course (for whatever reason), it’s OK. Trust me, you would have a learnt a lot, and even hell lot more, than if everything would have gone comfortably. 

Good luck and Godspeed!

6 Comments


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Karan Kapoor
Posted on: 23/2/2013 at 01:56 PM
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Hi, Lovely post!! I plan to do BMC next year and this post will give me a good perspective on it. Thanks!
khem singh
Posted on: 29/12/2012 at 04:01 PM
Post by: khem singh
nice sir

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